MichaelR said...
Funny, I had a mate ask me yesterday, "What's so good about surfing? You spend all your energy paddling out the back, wait for 20 minutes, get a 5 second ride, then do it all again....."
He's a motocyclist, as am I, so I asked him why he rides a motorcycle..... he responded with the age old.....
"If I have to explain it, you'll never understand"
My point exactly said I, surfing just "is", IMO, it can't be put into any other basket, art, sport, religion. It's all of them, yet it's none of them.... and whilst it can be compared to motorcycling in some ways, it also can't be.
Perhaps Dennis Denuto (The Castle) is correct - "It's the vibe of the thing, your Honour"
Michael
But then its all in the quote "different strokes for different folks" I ride bikes and longboards (Ducati
) but my wife rides dressage horses. While I can ride a horse it doesnt give me the same buzz as my passions do for me, so we agree to disagree and go with the flow.
