If it's a hex head that you rounded out just hammer in a torx bit to get it out

no need for a drill

Gwarn said..
If it's a hex head that you rounded out just hammer in a torx bit to get it out

no need for a drill

I have tried this with no luck so far. will have another go tomorrow.

segler said..
Maybe a lesson learned for all of us. If those bolts were titanium, they may have spalled. Ti is famous for that. If you have a choice, always use stainless instead of Ti.

Yes, i think titanium is a strange choice for this purpose. They will all be replaced with stainless from now on.......

I used to replace my foil hex screws every 50-80 sessions. I haven't needed to change any since I switched to Torx screws. I'm guessing I am up to 200 sessions on the current set of screws.

I could only get tamper proof screws with the central pin. That's turned out to be a good thing. I use a T-handle wrench with the hole for the pin and I suspect it helps to keep the wrench properly aligned on the screw.

I also went for Torx tamper proof on the foot strap screws. It's much easier to change screws around. I used to change the Phillips head screws every time I moved the straps. Now I can do any maintenance I like and not worry about screws.

I could only find 304 stainless Torx screws. I got lots of panic warnings from experts on the forums but it hasn't been a problem. I disassemble after each session and blow any excess salt water out of the holes.

My understanding is that corrosion is somewhat proportional to temperature and time. I foil almost every day in Melbourne so none of that is a problem.

But do NOT use 304 stainless. It is far too soft and rubbery. I used to run a metallurgy testing lab. 304 stainless acted like rubber in the tensile test machine. You don't want that with your gear.

There are many other stainlesses out there that are nice and strong. 316, 18-8, 17-4, and 15-5 come to mind. Several others.

segler said..
But do NOT use 304 stainless. It is far too soft and rubbery. I used to run a metallurgy testing lab. 304 stainless acted like rubber in the tensile test machine. You don't want that with your gear.

There are many other stainlesses out there that are nice and strong. 316, 18-8, 17-4, and 15-5 come to mind. Several others.

Hi Segler,

What do you mean with "304 stainless acted like rubber in the tensile test"? do you mean it would stretch more than 316 stainless?

Gorgo said..

I also went for Torx tamper proof on the foot strap screws. It's much easier to change screws around. I used to change the Phillips head screws every time I moved the straps. Now I can do any maintenance I like and not worry about screws.

I like this idea, tightening phillips head footstrap screws is a PITA. I've stuffed my fair share of screw heads in the process.
Are you talking about a torx bolt (e.g. M5) used as a screw or a conventional screw, that tapers towards the tip?

remery said..
... I just ordered the new Naish wing with a full set of titanium Torx screws. Robbie says in his video they are stronger and less likely to react with aluminium. I suppose I will find out soon.

Robbie says you can windfoil in 8 knots with a 5.4m surf sail and foil in 10 knots with a 4m wingding. I believe everything Robbie says.

I too dumped the philips screws and went with stainless hex bolts. Much easier to get things tight.

Lots of good info on bolt metallurgy and Archimedian science experiments in here
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Foiling/Slingshot-titanium-bolt-failure?page=2

I have A4-70 SS bolts from McMaster-Carr for fuselage to mast bolts now. I think A4-70 is 316, i.e. Has molybdenum.

Might change over footstrap screws to hex, as also think Philips head has PITA characteristics.

DavidJohn said..

remery said..
The head snapped off one of my stainless screws that holds the front wing on. Miraculously I managed to drill it out and retap the thread. I now use Tefgel on all the screws. I just ordered the new Naish wing with a full set of titanium Torx screws. Robbie says in his video they are stronger and less likely to react with aluminium. I suppose I will find out soon.

Was the head that snapped off your stainless screw a Phillips head or a Torx?

Phillips. It just would come out. So I got serious with the battery drill and it snapped.

A recommendation to prevent future headaches: do NOT use a power drill for ANY windsurfing gear. That is a good way to crack tapered holes and run fin screws through the board. Over the years I have seen it happen.

If ya got enough muscle to do this sport in the first place, then ya got enough muscle to turn screws safely and controllably.

Stainless has a habit of picking up a thread if spun in or out to fast. ie: using powerscrewdrivers.
304, as stated is bad for any marine environment and bolts. I find it harder to find 304 bolts etc. than 316, as most industrial fabrication of stainless irregardless of the product being 304, 316, 309 etc. use 316 bolts and nuts.
if you have had issues with Allen head bolts rounding out etc. it is mostly to do with the tool not the bolts. Make sure the Allen key is right size and not worn. Many can be ground back to get to unworn section ( like drill sharpening)

Hi Segler,

For footstrap screws, unable to get plastic tapping blunt end sqare, hex or torx drive 316 SS screws on mcmaster.com

Tried on Tacoma screw, seems these are all sold out, just like toilet paper for COVID19.
www.tacomascrew.com/Products/Pan-Head/14-x-1-Pan-Head-Square-Drive-Tapping-Screws-T316-Stainless-Steel-100-PKG

Were these what you bought? If not, what size?

Mcmaster.com has M6 25 or 30mm 316 Hex socket head screws, 1mm thread vs 14 threads/inch. Think these would work?

Thanks Segler,
Will order some.

I thought 304SS is a part of the 18-8 SS family?