BRM: New gear coming soon

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MidAtlanticFoil
MidAtlanticFoil
859 posts
859 posts
6 Jun 2026 5:23am
Here’s my latest mini harness loop for my reverse hook. Haven’t tested it yet.




CFL Foiler
CFL Foiler
160 posts
160 posts
6 Jun 2026 8:43pm
And here I am thinking the mono harness line is the best harness setup that I have used on a pw, I didn't like using a harness until I tried this setup

Good to have options, just a note to those thinking about using another harness setup the magic balance point is key. Needs to come off the inside of the D Handle for the magic to happen.
6 posts
6 Jun 2026 10:12pm
I have tried several single and double attachment point harness lines since the first BRM's came out and eventually settled on Jeff Howard's double attachment point bungee (kiteboarding.com). Soft, out of the way when not in use, easy, can comfortable grab it with my free hand when riding one handed.

I got the 30cm BRM (the length Gregg recommends as a starting point) to go with my new BRM S3 3.4m just to try it and am surprised at how much I like it. It is light, just rigid enough, easy, and the way it feels being right on the balance point is great. I'm a convert.
MidAtlanticFoil
MidAtlanticFoil
859 posts
859 posts
7 Jun 2026 3:11am
Yeah, Greg’s harness is great! Just want a shorter one and to have a cheaper option.
MidAtlanticFoil
MidAtlanticFoil
859 posts
859 posts
11 Jun 2026 8:46am


👀 hollow


boardridingmaui.com/pages/board
Youngbreezy
Youngbreezy
WA
1259 posts
WA, 1259 posts
12 Jun 2026 10:22pm
MidAtlanticFoil said..


👀 hollow


boardridingmaui.com/pages/board



$5339 Aud or $3757 USDfor a 4’10” !!! Looks good but also kinda looks like a fairly stock standard wing board. Yes the hollow construction is cool but who would actually fork out that much cash for fancy construction on a small compact board where swing weight isn’t really a problem anyway. At those dimensions it’s a good wind only board even for light weight riders. Using it only in good solid wind’s only further reduces the need for ultra light ultra expensive construction.


I fear Greg has indulged in too much of the Maui wowee and has taken a wrong turn on this one.
6 posts
18 Jun 2026 8:33am
D Grip Bar (Shovel Handle) v. Straight Bar:

I am hoping that someone can give a better comparison than this since I don't yet have much time on my 3.4 and also...I'm not that good. I can't even tack yet (skateboard yes, but have not tried on the water yet). What motivated me to try the straight bar is how much I love flying one handed.

Straight bar pros:
- One handed flying (when on foil) was natural and comfy. I can put my hand right in the middle of the sweet spot.

Straight bar cons:
- In light wind it's hard to keep it out of the water when climbing on the board and getting to my feet and taxiing (compared to other parawings).

D grip bar pros:
- Awesome when powered up two handed unhooked
- Awesome when powered up one handed hooked in.
- The BRM harness line, the balance, the natural feel, all good.
- Improved wrist ergonomics, and not just when holding the padded part of the D. Also when holding the arms of the D. You get about 45 degrees less twist in your wrist when doing a downloop jibe, or a tack. (So far, I have only tacked on skateboard).
- Grabbing the far arm (over the top grip) (my friend calls it the puppet master grip) twists the bar and applies more tension on the upper A lines which seems to greatly improve light wind handling.

D grip bar cons:
- One handed flying. This was really annoying on day one, but as I adapt this seems to be getting closer to being equal but different. Time will tell.

Any tips on light wind handling would be appreciated. Like in a lull down to 8-10 mph. Pulling on the horizontal red line to get it to rise, and pulling on an outer A line to keep a tip from hitting the water are obvious...anything else?




Frankieboy
Frankieboy
135 posts
135 posts
18 Jun 2026 7:03pm
I experiences the same using an F-One Quest bar (the small one has the same distance between A's and brake lines as on the D-bar).
I use the F-One Quest harness line now which is much easier to hook in without having to look. Works great IF you attach it the same way the BRM mono line is attached. If you attach it just after the junction with the D part you are out of balance.
The D-bar is ergonimic but for me it is a pain taxiing, collapsing and redeploying. Even after 10 sessions on the 5,3 now.
I will try the S3 with a "T" bar to have the best of both world
flowstate
flowstate
158 posts
158 posts
19 Jun 2026 4:49am
Frankieboy said..
I experiences the same using an F-One Quest bar (the small one has the same distance between A's and brake lines as on the D-bar).
I use the F-One Quest harness line now which is much easier to hook in without having to look. Works great IF you attach it the same way the BRM mono line is attached. If you attach it just after the junction with the D part you are out of balance.
The D-bar is ergonimic but for me it is a pain taxiing, collapsing and redeploying. Even after 10 sessions on the 5,3 now.
I will try the S3 with a "T" bar to have the best of both world



Frankieboy said..
I experiences the same using an F-One Quest bar (the small one has the same distance between A's and brake lines as on the D-bar).
I use the F-One Quest harness line now which is much easier to hook in without having to look. Works great IF you attach it the same way the BRM mono line is attached. If you attach it just after the junction with the D part you are out of balance.
The D-bar is ergonimic but for me it is a pain taxiing, collapsing and redeploying. Even after 10 sessions on the 5,3 now.
I will try the S3 with a "T" bar to have the best of both world

What’s yr “T” bar look like Frankie?



robbo1111
robbo1111
NSW
656 posts
NSW, 656 posts
19 Jun 2026 9:38am
Wanger.Issues said..
D Grip Bar (Shovel Handle) v. Straight Bar:

I am hoping that someone can give a better comparison than this since I don't yet have much time on my 3.4 and also...I'm not that good. I can't even tack yet (skateboard yes, but have not tried on the water yet). What motivated me to try the straight bar is how much I love flying one handed.

Straight bar pros:
- One handed flying (when on foil) was natural and comfy. I can put my hand right in the middle of the sweet spot.

Straight bar cons:
- In light wind it's hard to keep it out of the water when climbing on the board and getting to my feet and taxiing (compared to other parawings).

D grip bar pros:
- Awesome when powered up two handed unhooked
- Awesome when powered up one handed hooked in.
- The BRM harness line, the balance, the natural feel, all good.
- Improved wrist ergonomics, and not just when holding the padded part of the D. Also when holding the arms of the D. You get about 45 degrees less twist in your wrist when doing a downloop jibe, or a tack. (So far, I have only tacked on skateboard).
- Grabbing the far arm (over the top grip) (my friend calls it the puppet master grip) twists the bar and applies more tension on the upper A lines which seems to greatly improve light wind handling.

D grip bar cons:
- One handed flying. This was really annoying on day one, but as I adapt this seems to be getting closer to being equal but different. Time will tell.

Any tips on light wind handling would be appreciated. Like in a lull down to 8-10 mph. Pulling on the horizontal red line to get it to rise, and pulling on an outer A line to keep a tip from hitting the water are obvious...anything else?







Yeah pretty much agree with the cons. Toeside one handed doesn't really work with the D handle. Tacking is also a problem, for me at least, because I tack with my front hand. I'm now trying to learn with the back hand.
Frankieboy
Frankieboy
135 posts
135 posts
19 Jun 2026 4:05pm
flowstate said..

Frankieboy said..
I experiences the same using an F-One Quest bar (the small one has the same distance between A's and brake lines as on the D-bar).
I use the F-One Quest harness line now which is much easier to hook in without having to look. Works great IF you attach it the same way the BRM mono line is attached. If you attach it just after the junction with the D part you are out of balance.
The D-bar is ergonimic but for me it is a pain taxiing, collapsing and redeploying. Even after 10 sessions on the 5,3 now.
I will try the S3 with a "T" bar to have the best of both world





Frankieboy said..
I experiences the same using an F-One Quest bar (the small one has the same distance between A's and brake lines as on the D-bar).
I use the F-One Quest harness line now which is much easier to hook in without having to look. Works great IF you attach it the same way the BRM mono line is attached. If you attach it just after the junction with the D part you are out of balance.
The D-bar is ergonimic but for me it is a pain taxiing, collapsing and redeploying. Even after 10 sessions on the 5,3 now.
I will try the S3 with a "T" bar to have the best of both world


What’s yr “T” bar look like Frankie?





What do you think? I cut the handle off a shovel, but it has a T-grip at the end, not a D-grip 😂
It is a wooden one though. If it works well, I'll make one in carbon
Viri
Viri
5 posts
5 posts
19 Jun 2026 4:11pm
Hi. I'm thinking of buying S3 as my first parawing (I've never tried it before. But I have kitesurfing experience.) and I can't decide whether to go for 5.3 or 4.2 size. Could you help, please?

I ride the KT Ginxu Dragonfly 2 Pro Carbon ( 110L ) with a 1305 Duotone Glide. Conditions on our lake vary, but I intend to use the parawing at around 15 knots (which usually means ~20 knot gusts) on my local lake. In such conditions, I use the Duotone Unit 3.5. My weight is 85 kg, I do gybes (regular/switch stance), pump with legs when needed (wind luls, faster start).

Reading through this thread has made me lean more towards 4.2, mainly because I have an effective board that I can pump and I can upsize the foil (I have a 1595 Glide and a 2195 pump foil). I'm concerned that 5.3 would be with my setup easily overpowered. But that's just a guess.
CFL Foiler
CFL Foiler
160 posts
160 posts
19 Jun 2026 9:04pm
Greg's wind range charts are accurate. Make your decision based on the chart for sure. If you think your typical wind range is going to be 15 with gusts to 20 I would vote for the 4.2. The 5.3 can be ridden in those conditions, its actually just sheet and go in those conditions, but you will be very lit and probably not ideal for learning. The 4.2 is much easier to manage size wise and they all can be pumped well which is similar to a wing.

I love my 5.3 though. Its awesome for 10-15 conditions. Its a rocket ship in 15-20, still fun but probably a bit much for learning. I am so happy with the wind range that I actually skipped a size and went with the 3.2 for my next size down.
6 posts
19 Jun 2026 11:30pm
CFL Foiler said..
Greg's wind range charts are accurate. Make your decision based on the chart for sure. If you think your typical wind range is going to be 15 with gusts to 20 I would vote for the 4.2. The 5.3 can be ridden in those conditions, its actually just sheet and go in those conditions, but you will be very lit and probably not ideal for learning. The 4.2 is much easier to manage size wise and they all can be pumped well which is similar to a wing.

I love my 5.3 though. Its awesome for 10-15 conditions. Its a rocket ship in 15-20, still fun but probably a bit much for learning. I am so happy with the wind range that I actually skipped a size and went with the 3.2 for my next size down.


You skip all the way to the 3.2 Kanaha?

I have the 3.4 S3 and am considering skipping the 4.2 and getting the 5.3 for 10-17 mph. How does the 5.3 handle the lulls in gutless, humid, warm wind? And how does it wad / pack? I am sure it will feel massive, but compared to an aluula inflatible 5m wing that I would otherwise use in these conditions, the S3 would be way lighter and half the price.
CFL Foiler
CFL Foiler
160 posts
160 posts
20 Jun 2026 8:25am
Wanger.Issues said..

CFL Foiler said..
Greg's wind range charts are accurate. Make your decision based on the chart for sure. If you think your typical wind range is going to be 15 with gusts to 20 I would vote for the 4.2. The 5.3 can be ridden in those conditions, its actually just sheet and go in those conditions, but you will be very lit and probably not ideal for learning. The 4.2 is much easier to manage size wise and they all can be pumped well which is similar to a wing.

I love my 5.3 though. Its awesome for 10-15 conditions. Its a rocket ship in 15-20, still fun but probably a bit much for learning. I am so happy with the wind range that I actually skipped a size and went with the 3.2 for my next size down.



You skip all the way to the 3.2 Kanaha?

I have the 3.4 S3 and am considering skipping the 4.2 and getting the 5.3 for 10-17 mph. How does the 5.3 handle the lulls in gutless, humid, warm wind? And how does it wad / pack? I am sure it will feel massive, but compared to an aluula inflatible 5m wing that I would otherwise use in these conditions, the S3 would be way lighter and half the price.


I meant 3.4,good catch. So far I have the 5.3 and the 3.4. Plan to get the 2.1 to finish my quiver before I head to the gorge in September.

The 5.3 has been magic for me in light wind it makes 10-12 crazy fun. I rocket up wind effortless now. I sold my beloved 5.1 Maliko the day after my first session on it. I think 10-17 is a comfortable range for the 5.3. 10-15 is probably the sweet spot though.
MidAtlanticFoil
MidAtlanticFoil
859 posts
859 posts
20 Jun 2026 11:09pm
For the reverse hook users out there, here’s my latest, smallest loop solution. I used the shortest BRM loop and fed it back though the end loops and back over itself. Basically halved its length.







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