colas forum posts in last 60 days

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colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
28 Jun 2026 11:22pm
Great report!

And this is why on my last board I had a US Box instead of a FCSII box for the center fin, and I use a finjak to move the fin on the water between waves without tools.
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
26 Jun 2026 3:27pm
obijohn said..
Never heard of the brand, so that might be a gamble. The specs sound like what you are looking for, the description of the construction sounds reasonable if it is true, and the price is right if you are willing to gamble on the brand and shaper.


I remember it mentioned sometimes on this forum around 10 years ago.

You can see them with a google query:

www.google.com/search?cchannel=fs&q=site%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.seabreeze.com.au%2Fforums%2F+atlantis
Reply in Topic: Shark Deterrent?:-)
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
21 Jun 2026 2:07pm
ptsf1111 said..
Yup, depending on which query you put in Google, you'll either find resources that tell you it deters sharks, or others stating it will actually attract them (and put others at a heightened risk).


Importantly, there are studies, but their results depend greatly on the shark species. Some sharks do not even use electric currents to hunt...

"The threshold for an electrical field to repel a shark can vary by species but ranges from about 3 V/m (to deter bull sharks) to 18.5 V/m (to deter scalloped hammerheads), with some species requiring even higher field strengths.
The key challenge, however, is to create an electric field that extends far enough into the surrounding water. Generating long-range electric fields in seawater is inherently difficult because seawater is highly conductive. The electric current disperses rapidly through the surrounding medium, causing a voltage gradient that drops sharply with distance."

spectrum.ieee.org/electric-shark-repellent

Or: " The effectiveness of the deterrents was variable, with the Freedom+ Surf affecting shark behaviour the most and reducing the percentage of bait taken from 96% (relative to the control board) to 40%. The mean distance of sharks to the board increased from 1.6 ± 0.1 m (control board) to 2.6 ± 0.1 m when the Freedom Surf+ was active. The other deterrents had limited or no measureable effect on white shark behavour. "

pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6120439/

Also, beware of the studies that select specific species because they respond well to the electric devices... They are not wrong, but their results may apply differently to other species.
"The bonnethead shark, Sphyrna tiburo L. 1758, was selected as the study species due to ease of acquisition and husbandry coupled with their documented use of the electrosensory system when hunting "


onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jfb.70220
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
16 Jun 2026 3:22pm
I would advise you try the smallest rear quads you can get.

SUPs being more bulky than surfboards, they benefit from a looser setup.

Keep big/normal fins in front for grip, reduce the rears for nimbleness, especially on slow or small waves.
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
15 Jun 2026 3:42pm
Tardy said..
I found 10.6 and 11 longboards difficult to turn around in waves ..well just slow


I had a 125 liters 9'11" board, and it was quite nimble for turning around before waves (and on the waves) by reducing fins.
Either a single finger fin, or a thruster setup with the center moved forward to the max:

colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
14 Jun 2026 10:06pm
If you surfed longboards all your life, you can reduce the volume to get back the board feel you are used to.
If you are not getting out in choppy conditions, you could get down to 120 liters.

At 6' however you do not want to get too narrow. 32" is fine, I wont go under 30".

Struggling to turn probably means a too big fin with a too wide base, too far back.
First, try reducing it. A "finger" fin will liberate your board.
E.g: www.thomassurfboards.com/products/finger-fin?variant=51179135992117

A board with thinner rails will allow you to use smaller fins with less cord, helping also for this.

Also, less volume means it is quite easy to lift the nose a bit out the water, reducing the effective board length, which becoms much nimbler to position for takeoff.
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
8 Jun 2026 11:32pm
When I read "Why use small SUPs? just prone surf a shortboard!",

My reply: "Just watch how shortboarders say that a 10% volume increase radically change things, and realize how that a tiny SUP is still twice the volume of a shortboard..."

Stumbled on this example today: "This surfboard, a 5’7 at 31L which is 10% more volume than I used to ride, totally changed my surfing experience"

colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
8 Jun 2026 3:17pm
Rossall said..
Been using the 3M tape for years and you can't go wrong. Cheap (ish) and easy to apply. And unlike Gong products available globally and probably from your local surf / SUP ship in SA.


Actually:
- 3M (8671HS) is nearly twice more expensive than rail savers sold in your local shop
- 3M compromises on protection for suppleness (to be able to wrap around helicopter or paddle blades). This is why I still use it for my paddle blades.
- I was citing Gong since this is what I use but I also stated that it is now similar to others.
- 3M is not found in surf shops. You may however find them in bike or car shop to protect paint from gravels, but beware of the cheap imitations that are clearly inferior, as they are much thinner.

PS: I was using U-joints for my paddle blades when I started SUPing, but with modern streamlined blades, they can induce a small "wobble" that may or may not bother you. I still have them for the old paddles I lend to beginners.
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
7 Jun 2026 7:21pm
Mark _australia said..
Tape your paddle well with electrical tape and use any rail tape



Not any rail tape. The textured ones will eat the tape on your paddle blade...

But yes, I use also 3M Helicopter tape on the paddle blade, to prevent damage to the paddle... and my toes :-)
And also when using the paddle as a crutch on the deck to stand up (the supthecreek method) to save my old joints...

Also, having some protection on the paddle blade means you do not need as much protection on the rail, and use rail tape only in the very exposed parts (or not at all).
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
6 Jun 2026 4:35pm
My favorite is the one sold by Gong. It is as thick as 3M Helicopter tape, but a bit stiffer, so it spreads the impact forces a bit better.
Its smooth surface prevents abrasive wear on the paddle blade.
3M Helicopter tape is still better for sharp curves (paddle blades, very thin rails) as it is more supple to fit on tight curves.

However, I think it is kind of a generic product, and it should be nowadays similar to most rail savers on the market (such as the ION one I guess), except maybe the ultra-cheap ones.

I only put it in the 3' (80 to 90cm) from the nose, at it is where I hit the rails.
Plus I thus do not have the feeling of the rail tape under my hands when grabbing the board, which I dislike.
For this I use only 90cm of the rail saver, that I split diagonally to get 2 pieces that become narrower towards the nose.

Tips:
- I round the corners
- I try to never touch the glue with my fingers. When applying it I keep the backing tape where I hold the rail tape


colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
31 May 2026 5:06pm
stamp said..
I’m 77kg and at 103 litres my 8’1 x 28 JP feels like an aircraft carrier compared to my go to 7’6 x 27 x 92 litre in the same model.


I think you are 62yo, and I would have said the same when I was 62...

Not anymore :-)
colas
colas
5391 posts
5391 posts
30 May 2026 1:08pm
Good advice by others.
I would add:

[1] I love small SUPs, and especially short ones, but they are worth it only in small glassy waves. Any bump or chop and they become hell fast.

[2] As I age (I am "only" 65yo), length becomes also critical for ease of "pop up" (actually standing up). The sweet spot to stand on becomes critically small under 8', and the stiffer you are, the harder it is to land your feet there. I was using 6'8" SUPs at 97kg without problems, but after 63yo I realized I needed 8' to not fall when standing up. We are all age differently... but we all age :-)

[3] Volume by itself does mean nothing, always compare the board volume to the rider weight (ideally the total weight: rider+board+paddle+wetsuit...). A good ratio is the simple "guild factor" (GF): Board volume in liters / rider weight. This means:
- Your spice: 106 / 67 = 1.58 GF
- Your planned custom: 95/67 = 1.42 GF
- Your goal: 85/67 = 1.27 GF

[3] On volume, I just stumbled yesterday on two interesting videos of two people SUPing in the same kind of conditions (bumpy Hawaiian surf).

The young pro (Zane) is at a GF of 0.94



The very good, but non-pro older Wayde is at GF 1.34



Of course, on gentler and cleaner surf, you can comfortably get to lowers GF, but you do not need ultra-small GFs to rip.