Gidday Gang,

just like these guys, 10 photos here plus construction preamble.
More photos to come next post.

Enjoy...walkaboutjoe



Thought parameters for design

1 ….Must be able to operate as a walking machine, exercisizer, to allow my body to perform as near as possible to that of a normally functioning person. I suffer, obesity, sever arthritis, skeletal dysfunction, severe cervical spine deterioration, 1 artificial shoulder, 1 total rebuilt shoulder, lower back pain.

2 …. Must be able, capable of operating as a mobile bed, my body is unable to con-tinually operate in normal ways, such as rolling and tying a swag from the ground.

3 …. Must be able to carry the support loads to enable periods of extended walking, as near as possible to allow self sufficiency. Water, food, clothes, tools, cooking.

4 ….Must be able to function on rough road surfaces, 2 wheel tracks, secondary roads and highways

5 …. Has to be a safe, operable, to myself and others who may come across my path, during the course of my day.

6 … Carry the weight of- water 50ltrs=50kg, Refrigerator and food = 50 kg, Swag and clothes –cooking gear =50 kg, Tools-12v electric solar gear – battery = 50 kg.
In total, 200 kg plus a fully rigged cart, around 250 kg.
Plus the extra occasional weight of myself, top of around 140 down to target of 100 kg. Obtainable!

7 …. So that would be 400 – 500 kg range necessary, with optional, to 650 kg.

8 …. Ideally, needs to have some form of shock absorbing characteristics to minimize road shock transphered to my body. This is a must!

9 …. Have some optional power source, other than human, to assist propulsion, option #1 sail assisted, option #2 kite assisted, either or combination of both.

10 …. Ability to have component upgrades as required.

The actual build considerations-

Wheels should have a decent rolling dimension, enabling movement over rough ground, without impedance from small stones and pebbles.

Tyres should have sufficient width to spread the load to the road surface without bogging or deforming under load or speed to 50 kph.

Axles should ideally allow travel on two wheel tracks with mounded dirt between wheel track, up to 250mm high.

Wheel width should ride into two wheel tracks such as those on station property’s.

Wheels should act in synergy with corrugation profiles. The tops of corrugations occur mathematically at about 1200mm intervals. So ideally one wheel needs to be up on the top while the other is down in the lowest point. This stops both wheels attacking the corrugations at the same time. So now with a three wheel axle system one should be up,down and up.

Note – corrugations have, like sand-dunes, one hard packed side and one loose side, depending on which side of the road you drive, an advantage can be obtained.

Building material will be Aluminum where possible with correctly attached steel where necessary. Steel will paint red or light blue, alloy natural.
Design should be of sufficient artistic merit to be proud of and presentable to schools and children. To encourage experimentation!

The article should have the merit of attracting, expressing, demonstrating that there are many alternate ways, especially in partnership with nature, green. One doesn’t have to think and act as a herd animal, and can think outside the square.

Mast height was measured to allow normal safe movement along roads. This was ascertained by measuring the vertical height of a number of stock transports, 2, 3, and 4.deck.. I consider that they travel almost everywhere with height safety. I decided on their height minus 200mm. Care/observations must be maintained for overhanging tree crowns and or other occasionally occurring road restrictions, strange awnings, low bridges, sagging wires, low aircraft.

I would like to try operation with a kite, as I think they would be of more advantage than a sail, and a natural progression. I would perceive that to be a two, compatible person, operation in my case. With sponsors. I am open to discussion.

Visibility, is of prime importance. When the mast is erect it operates like a flag mast some 14’ above the road surface. I find this very helpful over crests or in spoon drain situations. I tend to be noticeable round bends as a shape and colour that conflicts with the local scene. I wear a reflective safety vest and on the rear of my shade roof. I tie streamers of holographic reflective packaging tape that moves in the slightest wispier of any air movement, spreading multiple penetrating beams of colorful light over a great distance.

Safety / Vision expectations, I have fitted rear view mirrors, I use them. Have a professional driving background of around 4.000.000 +ks, in road transport, wide and un-dimensional loads, general freight, bulk, tippers, heavy machinery, road trains. Tourist coaches, accommodated, camping and 6wd overland expeditions. 100,s of hours operation of bull dozers, graders, loaders, tractors, scrapers, in many locations around Australia. I trust no other on the road with the exception of other truckys, whom I know do not go to work to die, kill or maim, themselves or others. I am aware of people in unusual surroundings [touring drivers] and take elaborate precautions not to startle or interfere with their progress, ability’s and intentions.

I give right of way to all other road users and make sure that I cannot interfere with any other traveler’s intentions. There are many driving hazards, I do not contribute further to those already there. However I could write a book on what I observe, good, bad, very bad and extremely stupid, as could any other commercial driver.


I have a natural, proud and overwhelming need to promote all thing Australian, especially the unknown, unusual, unsung and the underdog, all Australian product.

I have no real need for speed or no need to be anywhere at any time , I don’t wear a watch. I always have the time for communication with the kaleidoscope of humanity that I meet, all of whom have their story, which I love to hear. I do get sick of talking about myself, and like to talk with people than to people. I might stop and watch nature at work for a few days or more. Doesn’t matter, it’s the journey.


front axle showing osilation, 200mm movement
all metal - red or light blue - alloy natural

rear wheel undercarriage showing 4 wheel set up

disk brake set up,calipers not attached yet

height block, disk brake rotor steering rod

nylok wheel nuts available osilation

and back the other way . tapered roller bearings

front axle swivel block,rubber cushion + steering
tye rods ,king pins

front axle osilation 200mm up or down

similar, steering rod in three pieces to allow maintenance

front of body 400mm wide - 600mm high
wheel width rear outside wheel 1.420mm
wheel nuts recessed inside rim inside wheel 1.000mm

Hi All,.... here's a few more point [traps] and a road test

my first wheels used were bike wheels, however the Three Corner Jacks and other prickles, [puncture causing weeds] made this a nightmare of punctured tubes.

So i fitted puncture proof tubes called No-Flats. this did stop the problem but gave me one other. The tires then would not quite support the load, or overload I had on the cart. There was a marginal flatness across the road surface creating some draqg.

I would consider bike wheels and tires to be O.K. for some applications but not for stressy hotdoggin

Bike type squeeze brakes are only limitedly effective and are not good enough to trust.
bike disk brakes should show much improved capability.

So i upgraded to smallish motorcycle wheels [from the ever popular Australian postie Honda]. Two front wheels, with drum brakes used on the rear, and two smaller no brake wheels on the front . This was only a four wheel set up. . Not all that flash, trouble experienced with cable kinking. Bit still better than bike set up.

Now comes the whole new experience, six wheels with two operating hydraulic discs
the breaking axle will travel in the middle of the three all going as planed ok

Now a driving test assessment, as it was when last on the open road
the first thing to do for the day was to decide what sail-sails to use with some safety for the day. The choice would be mainsail or jib or both. When i first started sailing this i had only a main sail , manufactured by the Alligator in Adelaide after discussion between our selves.
It worked, but my sail experience had mostly been jib assisted, and i fancied that with a self furling jib the performance would be enhanced. So a jib was cut and added another Alligator. The result was very good and it became more predictable and pointed very well, better than a few boats i sailed in.
I sailed mostly beach cats, The Qld Caper Cat was my favourite as the wife and I did a bit of adventure sailing. had a go at Cairns to Thursday Island, got smashed up a bit but made Cooktown. proud enough for that.
soooo after choosing the days sheets awwwwwwwwayyy we go
The mornings air is still , the breeze may not come in till mid afternoon, maybe if the terrain is suitable one could just push the monster. Test that i have done tell me that on flat bitumen with a spring balance it requires 9lb of exertion to provide forward motion. now that's good exercise
Ha!..... here come a little breeze, you can feel the uptake, no pushing effort, easy strolling behind, just steering, maybe add a few ld body weight on slight up grades, we are awaaaayyy
Breeze picks up a bit...2 -3 knots, going good, stretch out a little, bigger strides
More wind !!.. 3-5 knots, pull back on the cart , hold the speed back, feel the power of the breeze
Add more moving air !! just like setting the retard button loose, come on , waddle fast or run, Hey this is only 6 -7 knots. Crazy Mother ...nature !!! nearly
8 and above, slip the catch on The geesus Bar and let it drop into position, By gad, that's good, as one is dragged off ones feet and step upon the platform absolute reward. man is rewarded by nature. .
Sometimes i have had a seat set up here but mostly just stand and hold on. this is a hard maneuver for me , one trip and all is lost, big dedication to self preservation at this step over point.
But now enjoying the reward of all the exercise and it could be a ride on for 10 k's or more, maybe in under 1 hour. Don't want to get too fast and maybe out of control steady on sail application.
I have sailed over some smaller typish hills or you may call them road undulations Ohhh!!! the thrill of the Hill....... unbelievable And the absolute ...downhill sailing. a real wow factor. . I cheat a little if the gradient is to steep and will accept [bludge] a tow to the top [}:)] Please Mister Please
My other real love is sailing those really big willy willys...for me incredible

Land sailing is different things to different people, You have just been in Mine, and I thank you for having Me in Yours..............really enjoy!!! walkaboutjoe

Looking good!! Where will the maiden voyage be to?

I would consider rredesigning the front steering so that the king pin angle was toward the centre of the contact point on the front wheels. the set up you have there will want to turn , but not come back( I think). Have a look at some ride on lawn mowers and go karts.
Willing to be proven wrong , but willing to bet half a sheep station on this one

Giddday ....Landyacht,....Nebbian,
That's a big call,..." Half a sheep station !!! " Which half ??? , ok, but your on for a rum or two mines a Bundy !!! . Now when challenged...defend.
While driving an old cat12 in WA for some mths with one of your Honest? Shonky/, Contractors. No power steering good coat of paint though The steering comes from there, one has to remain mentally alert while on the job, so i stole the basic geometry while fighting the wheel.
It has worked on the original two front ends that i have used, and major components have been salvaged then recycled to keep the prices down.
Neb, the steering stick dos'nt fall over, it has a sorta direct but light feel, however caution must be maintained as some obstructive small rocks may cause, erratic deviations that would cause alarm to some certain people in our community. . Maybe two compression springs will give a self centering effect. Whot you recon???
The stopping lever will be attached to the steering stick to allow aircraft style control. There will be the firemans [steam] platform to work from while doing the dare devil down hill thingo, with a small fold away cycle seat to park the dairy air upon. thats all comming soon . Cheeers ....joe

when you turn, say , left, the left wheel will be draggingbehind the steering pivot and you will be pushing hard to correct , like driving any old eathmoving gear at speed , you tend to have to overcorrect, and end up "S"ing down the road. thats why the kingpin s made to point into the centre of the contact point of the wheel.
When Bill finch gave us the steering set up you can see on the PM( Gizmo or hills to find old drawing previously posted) all our steering problems came to an end , because bill had thought about the contact to kingpin angles. IE the steering no longer fought you.
You see the same thing applied to just about any small buggy , lawnmower, or car.
when the lads find that old diagram that I think Hills posted , maybe it will all make sense

landyacht said...
When Bill finch gave us the steering set up you can see on the PM( Gizmo or hills to find old drawing previously posted) all our steering problems came to an end , because bill had thought about the contact to kingpin angles. IE the steering no longer fought you.

Ahh yes but Mr. Murray has TWO front wheels

I agree it's not ideal but with packaging contraints it's not too bad. If the kingpin is inclined so that the line hits the contact patch then the wheel will go up and down as you move the steering. Useful on a go-kart where you want the inside wheel to go off the ground as you turn (no rear diff) but it makes the steering very heavy...

Take it to the extreme: A billycart with a solid front axle. King pin is a long way from the wheel, and it isn't too bad. If you put the pivot in front of the axle then you get some form of self-centring. You do get some bump steer when you hit a rock (as Mr. Murray already mentioned) but with stub axles that short I don't see it as being a huge problem.

Hi Neb, Mr is far too formal i'm still young at heart and an absolute problem to my kid's they do not want to know one, after what they consider one's use by date has been passed They consider dad to be a bit of a Hey that's life

Cisco.... u moving my way a whisker do you want to do, shearing, on my sheep station when i claim it [}:)] from the Lefroyidus you may be better doing the boundrys, can u still ride a steed Hi...HO...Sliver, Away ..cheers ..joe

basically like this.
dont forget that the wagon has 4 short fat wheels at the back widely spaced . that configuration will resist the desire to turn when weight is put on it , so youll need a very accurate steering system up front to overcome it

The heaviness or not of the steering is a result of the amount of "trail" or "caster" that is built into the steering geometry which is set by the rearwards offset of the axle in relation to the king pin axis.

Do the wheels on a Woollies trolley wobble Cheers Cisco

nebbian said...
So why is a go-kart steering wheel heavy when you're stationary? Caster doesn't come into it when you're not moving. I think it's because of the jacking effect of an inclined kingpin.


Simple-When stationary you have to drag the rubber across the surface -go karts have
a wide tyre so you have to drag parts of the tyre up to a couple of inches
(50mm)
low tyre pressure=heavy steering high tyre pressure= light steering
the camber, caster and toe only have a small effect when stationary.
At speed the drag is minimal and the camber, caster and toe are the main
factors
Try freezing two trays of water and putting them under the front wheels

Ackerman steering is basically allowing the inside wheel/rudder in a turn to turn sharper than the outside wheel/rudder as the inside wheel/hull scribes a tighter arc than the outside wheel/hull (critical in sharp cornering) -we were playing with this on paper tigers in the seventies, now the nacra's come out with it as standard equipment, cars have had it as far back as I remember.

A few years ago I designed a recumbent trike that I have yet to build. I shelved the project having been drawn away from it by the arrival of a beautiful German Shepherd puppy into the family and then a very serious involvement with another woman called "Sand yacht". ( long loving "sigh" )
The trike was designed with Ackerman steering which was the only way to go for this project. The trike has 16 degrees of camber and 12 degrees castor. A correct Ackerman layout can only be developed by using a CAD program. It can be done with a pencil and a ruler etc. but would take many hours of tedious work to get it exactly right. If Joe wants to incorporate Ackerman steering in his project, I will do the drawings for him, gratis. (IM me Joe if you want to use Ackerman steering). It is vital to get the camber and castor angles correct and have the tyre imprint on the ground to be aligned correctly with the centerline of the kingpin/s. If the alignment is "spot on", bump steering is not potentially, a great problem. If I could upload a "pdf" file to the forum, I could share the drawings of the trike's steering and relevant info with you............ (hint-hint-hint )

Kody

Joe... how many have you got? I can see 8 in the pic got any more

j murray said...
P.S. this post is becoming too long and i think iy time to goto page two, how does one accomplish that.

Just keep adding new messages Joe, the page will update itself soon.

Hi Joe,
Have a look at this for a sail reefing system

www.hobiecat.com/sailing/sail_bravo.html
have a look at the small moving video....

Here is the instruction for the yacht and rig.
http://www.hobie-cat.net/download/manuels/hi_res/bravo_gb.pdf

Good to meet you and see your wagon....cheers