Today Dad, Rich & I (Better Dad??) surfed Torquay Pt & Secert Spot No. 16

The swell was really good and our first session was fantastic (but then again so is any other one, when you haven't surfed for 2 weeks!) the waves were a good size and had a fair amount of power


But of course when its this good, theres something to look out for, in this case the boils that liked to chuck you of your board right next to the reef[}:)][}:)] Dad and Rich got some smokers (borrowing a quote from Dad

)Next we had some subway, and headed back to the "Secert Spot" were we all ate our lunch in 3 seconds flat (approx.) and jumped back into our lurrrrrrrrvly wet wetsuits.

What an interesting session that second one was. I never knew you could get smashed worse in the shore break, than when you were actually IN the water with sets actually being thrown at you!
PMSL after spending about 10 minutes just getting smashed in the shorey I found out I had about half a tonne of sand embedded in my wettie that wasn't there when I put it on!
(Note to self: in future surf sessions @ secert spot 16, to get out past the shorey just run like heck till you can no longer touch the bottom, then paddle like heck so the set waves don't smash you either!

It works!)
Lol the thing I remeber most about today was, there was a massive set wave coming straight at us, so im paddling like there's no tomorrow, but then Dad decides to paddle for it, and even before he taken off, I could see he was gonna get smashed! Well you won't know until you try!
But even after all that it was still enjoyable!
Thanks to Rich for taking me and Dad, and to Dad for driving me, buying me lunch, taking my board on and off the car etc etc...
Kristi
