garymalmgren forum posts in last 60 days

What’s the concensus on how long Propspeed lasts? Our plastic feathering prop is susceptible to fouling,

There is no consensus on the life of propeller coating.
Location, water temperature, water quality, water flow, how often and how long you motor, the quality of the initial application all affect the longevity.
5 years ago my Prop Speed lasted a year. Now I am going on 18 months with a clean prop.
5 years ago the local oyster harvest was great this year it is really bad.
Maybe the fuel spill from the Coast Guard cutter has something to do with that.

RE: Our plastic feathering prop is susceptible to fouling,
You have a plastic propeller?

gary

This post is not to make light of a serious incident, but to show how easily things can go wrong.
I remember years ago a cat was discovered of North Queensland with the three crew missing.
One theory was that they had gone aground on a bank, Had got off the boat and successfully pushed it off the and away it went. Leaving them behind.
The bloke in this video could have years of experience under his belt.
Gary

Hi Toph
Re Lithium batteries
There are lots of guys with opinions on Youtube.
One guy that I take seriously is Kevin Bothby.
He is a full time live aboard with a circumnavigation in the engineless Ruth Avery. under his belt.
5 years ago he switched to Lithium batteries. and he has had no problems since then.


Re your question "Has Lithium just come down to brand name or is there still a bog difference in the cells?"
My answer, We used to say you get what you pay for.
Now with rebranding that is not so set in stone.
Distributors buy in bulk and then rebrand, so it has become really difficult to discern between expensive = the best and expensive = a rebrand.
Made in China or assembled in the U.S?
Assembled in the U. S. (or any other country) could just mean slipped into the shipping cardboard box.
Check Kevin's take. I might help you decide.

gary

RE:
I am proposing to use a professional rigger to supply and terminate the components.
So, you will measure , give the rigger the lengths and have the rigging made before hand?
I'm happy setting the rig up myself, actually I would prefer to.
What do you mean by "setting the rig up"?
Has anyone done this? Is it safe to go up the mast on the main+spin halyard with the rig only held at the partners and D1s? How did you do it?
Is it safe to go up the mast on the main+spin halyard with the rig only held at the partners and D1s?
I would say no. You could use two halyards to support the mast and one to haul up on.
I would not go up an unsupported mast even if it was partially done. Think about hiring a cherry picker. Safer, easier and faster.

Many years ago I re-rigged my 36 foot double ender in Singapore at anchor.
She had mast steps.
I measured all the rigging and had it made up 30 cm too long with the top end fittings swagged on.
One by one fitted the shrouds at the top. Did I mention that I had mast steps?
Cut them to length and fitted Sta Lok fittings to the lower ends.
The rear stay was split with a set of triangular plates. Had the top section made up and the two lowers made long.
Tied off the main halyard and spinnaker halyard astern and did the rear stay with Sta Lok fittings.
Tied off the foresail halyard and spinnaker halyard forward and fitted the new forestay.
Didn't have a small battery powered angle grinder back then so the biggest hassle was cutting the rigging wire with a hacksaw.
Sta loks are expensive but they can be reused.

gary

Longer pole (minuses) = heavier, more hassle to set and fit into chocks, takes more deck room, slightly more expensive if using regular pole ends, a lot more expensive if you go for larger diameter and larger end fittings.
Plus (I can only think of one) = will hold the spinnaker out further.

When you say "penalty" are you referring to rating/handicap?
RE. "Sizable advantage". I would say yes in some conditions and no in others.

gary

I thought that third party insurance is to compensate the "other".
To cover this type of "accident" you would need full comprehensive wouldn't you?
In the long run, not running aground is the way to go.

gary

Hi Tri Hike.
How much free time do you have?
Are you married with kids?
Do you have a job that will allow you to spend every weekend for the next two years on a boat project?
Time is a real factor here.

RE: . First I would purchase the high thrust outboard and use a good friend of mine to get it onboard then Id motor over to Pelican Slipways and get the rigging and hull sorted so she can be insured.

Every day in a yard is time. But in that case the time converts to money really quickly.
If you have the boat in a yard and can only work on it one day a week, you will run up a huge bill before you know it.
The alternative is to use your time to work and save money. Then use the money to buy a boat in good condition and with the gear to get you on the water.
Time?
Money?
I would suggest working your ar#e off and saving like crazy.That means instant coffee!!
On top of that find someone with a boat that you can sail on when you have the TIME.
Then when you have the money (Not a $1 boat) put it into a good sound boat and sail as you prepare for the next step.

gary

The tillerpilot is operating a trim tab , so doesn't need to exert so much force.
He seems to be satisfied with its operation.
As he explained, the constant (correct) operation split the (teak) mounting block along the grain.
The heavier hardwood block should do the job.
You are right about the gybe though. It would have come right out of the blue.
gary

Hi Toph and Jon.
Coincidentally that is the video that I used to teach myself.
That bloke doesn't get finicky tapering the line, he just chops it off.
I got it right the first time off and have made 5 splices. However, I refer back to the video each time.
So, keep at it!!!
And of course I use the best tools.
Fid s made from cooking ladles.
"D" fid made from an egg whisk.
Through fid made from a plastic knitting needle.
All from the 100 yen shop.😅
gary